hanoi summer time

An ancient and yet modern city

By Francisco Morais

August 26^th, 2019

Hanoi in summer is a city of extremes. The air is thick with humidity, the streets shimmer under the midday sun, and the sound of cicadas fills the trees. Life slows in the heat, yet the city never stops. Vendors fan themselves beside baskets of lychees and mangosteens, their fruit glowing red and purple against the dust of the pavement. Children chase each other through alleys with ice creams melting faster than they can eat them, while motorbikes weave endlessly through the glare.

At dawn, before the heat takes hold, Hanoi’s streets and lakesides turn into open-air gyms. Groups of elderly men and women move in unison through slow, deliberate tai chi routines, their silhouettes reflected on the still water of Hoàn Kiếm Lake. Nearby, others practice qigong, stretch with resistance bands tied to trees, or jog laps around the shaded paths. Children play shuttlecock kicking (đá cầu), sending the feathered toy flying back and forth with their feet, while teenagers gather for impromptu games of badminton on sidewalks marked with chalk. Even in the smallest alleys, you’ll find neighbors playing chess, lifting makeshift weights, or simply walking together in circles as part of their morning ritual. These activities are not just exercise but a form of community — a way for the city to greet the day with movement, rhythm, and shared energy.

The lakes become the city’s refuge. Around Hoàn Kiếm Lake, couples stroll in the shade of ancient trees, while at West Lake, families gather at dusk to catch the breeze. Street stalls appear with tall glasses of iced tea and bowls of chè, sweet soups of beans and fruit served over crushed ice. These small rituals of refreshment are as much a part of summer as the heat itself.

Evenings bring a different rhythm. As the sun drops, the air cools just enough for the city to reawaken. Sidewalks fill with plastic stools, bia hơi taps open, and the scent of grilled meat drifts through the streets. Neon signs flicker on, and the city hums with a kind of relief — the collective exhale of a day endured. Hanoi in summer is not gentle, but it is unforgettable: a season that tests patience and rewards resilience, where the intensity of the heat is matched only by the intensity of life.