Porto de Galinhas, Brasil

A summer week in the south hemisphere, December 2022

By Francisco Morais

June 29^th, 2023

Porto de Galinhas, Brazil

Our week began on the shores of Porto de Galinhas, a stretch of bright-water beaches and natural coral pools in Ipojuca, Pernambuco—just 60 km south of Recife. Early mornings found the tide retreating to reveal crystalline shallows where vibrant fish darted among lace-like reefs. The sand was powdery soft, edged by coconut palms swaying against a sky the color of aquamarine.

The village’s name carries a secret piece of history. Until 1850 it was known as Porto Rico, a hub for clandestine slave traders. To hide human cargo, traffickers smuggled enslaved people alongside guineafowl, coining the code “Tem galinha nova no porto”—“There are new chickens in the port”—and Porto de Galinhas was born. Today, sugarcane fields roll gently in the distance, a quiet reminder of the region’s past.

By mid-day, we joined local jangadeiros on traditional wooden rafts, skimming out past the breakers to the deeper natural pools. There, with snorkel masks in place, we hovered above schools of sergeant major fish and neon parrotfish, the sun filtering through water so clear it felt like breathing light. Onshore, artisans sold hand-woven hammocks and fresh coconut water poured straight from the nut.

As afternoon slipped toward sunset, we walked along the wide curve of Maracaípe Beach. Windsurfers carved arcs on glassy waters, while kites drifted high overhead. We paused at a beachfront bar to sip caipirinhas and nibble on tapioca crepes stuffed with queijo coalho, the salty cheese melting on our tongues as the sky ignited in rose and gold.

On our final evening, fishermen beached their colorful boats on the sand, lanterns swinging from mast to hull. We lingered on the shore, the surf whispering stories of centuries past and memories made in a place where water, sand, and history converge in brilliant harmony.